Sunday, 2. August 2009:
Passing the lakes, wines filled hills and Lukoil petrol stations (app. 0.70 €/litre) cast in morning light we arrived in Chisinau. Just by looking outside the bus, our preconceptions about the coutry were shattering quicker than glass storefronts after a football match.
Judging by the GDP numbers and Moldova’s status as Europe’s poorest country, we were expecting something quite different than the clean, wide streets, colorful storefronts, scattered Casinos, karaoke bars and decent cars of Chisinau. Despite having learnt a similar lesson in other countries I was once again taken aback.
Next, taking care of the basics. Money exchanges were all closed due to the early hour, so we first took a taxi (who after some arguing exchanged 5€ for us and charged 2) to the Zaratea hotel which was recommended to us before. The receptionist spoke only Russian and Romanian (which they often call Moldovan for national pride reasons) and must have been trained in customer service by the Soviet school for coldness and unrelenting pessimism. She pointed us to a 24/7 exchange and food store close to the hotel. When we returned with the money her mood was somewhat improved and she even gave us two 3 bed rooms for the price of 2 bed ones. Rooms were rather old, but spacious and decent with even a fridge and a TV. The shower and toilets were shared per three rooms, but always clean. All that for about 9€ per person per night.
Then, a quick expedition around town. Main park with an orthodox cathedral right accross the road from the government building. We did not fit in with our short trousers so we quickly departed from the sunday prayers. We were surprised to see the women wearing little headscarves for church, despite their otherwise revealing and elegant dresses. Everything incredibly tidy in a way you would not see in most European capitals. Drink stands on every step and of course, no capital is complete these days without a McDonalds right in the centre. We largely ignored them, apart from their free WiFi. The latter is common, a short walk will reveal a bunch of hotspots, most resedential ones locked, but a lot of cafes offer it for free, much more often than in Slovenia.
After a coffee to boost our step we headed for the primary destination you should visit first in any city. The Market. It was Sunday morning but it was nonetheless bustling with activity. Long rows of stands selling everything from vegetables, meat, dairy products to clothes, detergents and Kučma hats. What’s homegrown is really cheap with other goods usually only slightly cheaper than back home.

- Tomatos 0.20 €/kg
- Watermellons 0.15 €/kg
- Box of ciggarets 0.5 €, Marlboro 0.7 €

You get the picture. We did some more walking around seeing a Jewish synagogue (there used to be a lot more of those before WWII) where we put on the black cap and took a quick peek at the Toras. Lonely Planet told us of a lake in the north of the city with locals swimming, rowing, enjoying all kinds of recreational facilities… Yeah right, all that was leftt was a bush covered valley. They dried it up 3 years ago due to water pollution when all the fish suddenly went belly up.
All that was left was to observe the natural beauties of Chisinau which comprise of the incredible greenery of the city but mainly its’ female inhabitants. A quick nap, shower and we were ready for nightlife. We met with Elena who Ivor knew from a conference and her friend Tea. We hit it off splendidly right from the start and proceeded to a great night cruising the city’s bars and clubs…